Kota Doria Dress Material Rust Orange Floral Jaal

This cotton dress material is a two piece unstitched set a warm rust orange top length with a matching dupatta woven in the sheer khat check of Kaithoon near Kota The top is worked in an all over white resham floral jaal of scrolling vines and small flowers while the dupatta is lifted by multicolour floral bouquets pink yellow and orange blooms with green leaves scattered across the field and gathered at the corners Kota Doria is known by its khat the tiny square graph of the weave formed by alternating fine cotton and silk yarns a common khat runs to roughly fourteen threads a square Hold the cloth to the light and you should see a clear even grid of transparent squares the yarn looks faintly uneven and slubbed where it was spun and woven by hand and the squares drift by a hair across the width A powerloom or printed imitation shows a flat perfectly regular mesh with no slub and no give The embroidery is a second cue the white resham thread work sits slightly proud of the surface and you can trace the stitch path on the reverse whereas a printed embroidery stays flat and shows through evenly to the back The dupatta s coloured bouquets are worked in the same proud floss you can read on the reverse Kota Doria is a GI tagged handloom woven on pit looms in and around Kaithoon a weaving cluster near Kota in Rajasthan where families have worked this cotton and silk square weave for generations The open weave is what keeps the cloth so light and airy a quality prized through the Indian summer and genuine handloom pieces from the cluster carry a small GI mark woven into one corner Stitched into a kurta with the matching dupatta this warm rust orange set carries easily from daytime gatherings to small celebrations Pair with gold toned jhumkas and tan or nude footwear for a fresh summer ready look