Chikankari Mul Chanderi Dress Material White on White Jaali

A classic white on white dress material in fine white the purest and oldest expression of the craft The kameez panel is worked in self coloured white thread with a floral placket and open jaali net fillings while the sheer dupatta is finished with a slim golden zari border and soft tasselled ends It comes as an unstitched three piece set top fabric and dupatta Because the thread matches the cloth the handwork shows in texture rather than colour which makes the tells easy to read The shadowy floral outlines are bakhiya worked from the back the raised dots are phanda and murri knots tied individually and the net effect is hand pulled jaali the single strongest sign of authenticity with an organic slightly uneven mesh that machines cannot copy A machine chikan looks uniform and flat and is clean on both faces whereas this cloth carries stitch trails on the reverse White on white chikankari is the form the Lucknow karigars have practised since the Mughal era and it remains the truest test of a skilled hand The understated palette is deliberate it is meant to be felt up close This is a year round dress up or down piece Stitched into a straight kurta or suit it works for office daytime events and summer occasions alike layer it over a pastel slip and keep the jewellery minimal so the embroidery stays the focus